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Ruchira takes us on a tour of the beautiful Andaman-Nicobar Islands. During the Raj, it was meant for deportation of the revolutionaries, a Kala Pani. An exclusive for Different Truths.
One fine January morning while boarding an Indian Airlines flight to Port Blair from Kolkata I was so thrilled and excited.
Until nearly a century ago, the very mention of Andaman-Nicobar Islands conjured before the eyes of listeners images of swirling dark ocean waters, deadly sharks and other aquatic creatures, an island with profuse tropical vegetation, inhabited by ferocious aboriginal tribes untouched by civilisation.
During two centuries of British Raj islands located in the Bay of Bengal shot into notoriety for another reason. The colonials had earmarked these islands as a penal settlement for those who dared to defy them. The maximum punishment awarded to the terrorists (Indian revolutionaries and freedom fighters) was either hanging. Or deportation to the Kala Pani, as these islands were named.
In Bengali literature of those times, we found many instances of Deepantar…
In Bengali literature of those times, we found many instances of Deepantar (a shift from mainland India to these isles). Many horrific stories grew about this region. Whoever went to Kala Pani never returned to their native shores. Either they succumbed to the extreme tropical heat and hostile circumstances or else got devoured by the sharks, while trying to escape via sea.
Post Independence, this gruesome, formidable picture underwent a sea change. Owing to their ethereal natural beauty the islands began to be developed and promoted as tourist destinations. The area has since made great progress. The islands figure in contemporary Bangla literature too.
Children’s Fiction
For instance, the noted writer Sunil Gangopadhyay penned a children’s fiction titled, ‘Sabuj Dwiper Raja’ with Andaman-Nicobar Islands as the backdrop. The novel was turned into a popular flick (with the same name) by eminent film director Tapan Sinha.
As the aircraft began to swoop down, I held my breath. The view beyond the window was divine.
Back to my account. As the aircraft began to swoop down, I held my breath. The view beyond the window was divine. A vast expanse of greenery interspersed with swirling waters of the sea and the azure sky above. It is still etched in my mind.
After landing at the pretty little airport with lovely green touches, we were received by an aunt of mine. She lived on a neighbouring island and was a government employee. We checked into pre-booked lodgings for lunch after our hectic journey. Though we were in January, the atmosphere was exceedingly warm and humid.
Those days Port Blair was a picturesque place.
After sundown, we went on a casual tour of the little town. Those days Port Blair was a picturesque place. There were stand-alone houses and bungalows set amidst well-manicured gardens. It was neat and clean, well maintained, and well-lit roads, thin traffic, not forgetting the warm and friendly people.
Aberdeen Bazaar
The heart of town and its nerve center Aberdeen Bazaar was a fine blend of the ethnic and colonial. Glossy shops chockablock with all varieties of merchandise, spick-and-span eateries, and so on. The picture must have been greatly altered now, after so many years.
That very evening we learned that the inter-island helicopter services got suspended temporarily for the next few days.
Now a bit of a shocker. My aunt had chalked out an itinerary for us to visit some interesting tourist spots on nearby islands (including her home). That very evening we learned that the inter-island helicopter services got suspended temporarily for the next few days. Our disappointment knew no bounds.
The following morning, we set out early for more sightseeing. Though it was barely 8 am yet it felt like midday with the sun beating down relentlessly upon us. Our first halt was at Corbyn’s Cove, the vast stretches of white sands swaying palm trees and placid, turquoise sea waters all presented a pretty picture. Since the heat was already mounting, we had to resort to several refreshment breaks during our tour. The delicious “narial pani” was indeed Ambrosia for us. Mother nature has its ways to quench people’s thirst!
Tribal Museum
Then we visited the famous Chatham Sawmill – the largest of its kind in all of Asia dating back to the colonial period. It was delightful to visit the ethnic Tribal Museum too. Saw a vivid picture of how the aborigines lived amidst perfect natural surroundings in utmost tranquility, unspoiled by the cruel hands of civilisation. Their items of daily use, handicrafts and objets d’art were delightful.
…we headed towards the star attraction of Port Blair. The nefarious Cellular Jail.
Next, we headed towards the star attraction of Port Blair. The nefarious Cellular Jail. History came alive before our eyes! The majestic imposing edifice is wheel-shaped dotted with numerous tiny honeycomb-like cells. Hence the name. The highly uncomfortable cells unfit for even single occupancy, overlooked the brilliant blue sea waters yonder.
My mind soared in a realm of fancy: how those hapless but heroic men must have yearned for freedom and a desire to return to their beloved motherland! How many of them had perished without realising their dreams? I felt a lump in my throat, and tears blurred my vision. I paid a silent tribute to those nameless, faceless brave hearts, who had given their all for their country’s liberation!
Pictures from Youtube
