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Ruchira takes us on a tour of Haridwar-Rishikesh-Lakshmanjhula along the Holy Ganges. An exclusive for Different Truths.
Until a few decades earlier the Haridwar-Rishikesh-Lakshmanjhula circuit was a must-do for Bengali tourists drawn from diverse sections of society. For the simple reason that it combines religious faith /pilgrimage with natural beauty and outdoor activities.
I recall how at age ten, I had accompanied a family group— comprising my dad, my grandmother, a paternal aunt with her daughter, and a nephew of my father’s—to Haridwar. On a cold and frosty dawn, we arrived there by an overnight train from the capital. We decided to lodge in the famous Bholagiri Dharamshalaa familiar name in the Bengali tourist circuit.
Innumerable Dharmashalas
Most sacred towns in India bristle with innumerable Dharamshalas / charitable/ walk-in lodges so that even the poorest of the poor pilgrims may find accommodation. Such establishments are by and large well maintained so that even well-off folks can stay there. In recent years these pilgrimage sites have witnessed a mushrooming of hotel chains big and small which has altered the picture altogether.
At daybreak, we made a beeline to the riverside for a customary dip in the Holy Ganges.
At daybreak, we made a beeline to the riverside for a customary dip in the Holy Ganges. The waters were icy cold, enough to chill you to the bone. But the river was so crystal clear that the pebbles dotting the riverbed were visible as were the numerous fish that swam therein.
Revisited Haridwar
About five years ago I revisited Haridwar along with a friend. The place was unrecognisable. In the aftermath of the construction of the Tehri dam, besides other management and control methods that have been implemented, the waters appeared rather turbid; the fish and pebbles had vanished or at least were not visible. Nevertheless, it was thrilling to discover that the icy touch had not changed.
This sylvan town is dotted with many temples of varying antiquity.
Our next destination was Rishikesh. This sylvan town is dotted with many temples of varying antiquity. Geographically speaking, it is here that the mighty Ganges tumbles down from the Shivaliks (lower Himalayas) onto the plains below. The verdant hills skirting the town were so refreshing to view. My enthusiastic cousin, who was an avid photographer, suddenly decided to do a bit of climbing up these hills, and I sauntered after him. We were unable to go very far upwards since the path before us grew so steep suddenly that the twenty something youth grew out of breath. During our downward journey dada adroitly managed to capture some breathtaking views of the river and the hills with his camera. These remain our treasures even to this day.
Tourist Town
Rishikesh has lately been transformed into a tourist town (read commercial) rather than a spiritual one. Once it used to be a flourishing yoga and meditation centre with a sombre air about it; but the popular annual event i.e., the International Yoga Festival introduced at the turn of the century, has paved way for a steady influx of tourists every year. River rafting and similar aquatic sports have become major crowd-pullers, raking in humongous amounts of moolah for the state government. No wonder my recent visit was a damp squib. The pristine beauty was gone!
Legends say, it was here that Lakshman, Lord Rama’s sibling, crossed the Ganges while clinging onto jute ropes hanging overhead.
Our next halt was at Lakshmanjhula. Legends say, it was here that Lakshman, Lord Rama’s sibling, crossed the Ganges while clinging onto jute ropes hanging overhead. Mythology apart, it was way back, in 1923, that a 450-ft long iron suspension bridge was constructed across the river. It has emerged as the icon of the region’s tourism industry. Lakshmanjhula offers the traveller a panoramic view: the town’s skyline dotted with shrines, the hills yonder, and the swirling waters of the river flowing beneath.
Ganga Arati
The star attraction of this package happens to be the Ganga Arati,at Haridwar’s Har ki pauri ghat. As twilight approaches and shadows lengthen across the skies, visitors and local folks muster strong on the riverbank. Suddenly hundreds of thousands of oil lamps are kindled simultaneously as if by magic touch! Their dazzling illumination virtually sets the quietly rippling waters ablaze! The sprawling slippery – wet ghat with the imposing clock tower as the backdrop, the sonorous chanting of hymns, hordes of devotees swaying in ecstasy usher in an ethereal ambience! Forget about the devout aam janata, even a near-atheist like myself couldn’t help being overwhelmed by this bewitching spectacle!
Feature Photo by Bhaskar Pundhir on Unsplash
Center Photo by Neeta Gulati on Unsplash
Column Logo by Different Truths
