A River Runs Through: Marble Rocks at Jabalpur

Ruchira takes us on a tour of Marble Rocks and Dhuandhar Falls, at Jabalpur. An exclusive for Different Truths.

Marble Rocks at Bhedaghat in Jabalpur, MP, while reading about them in school text books I always wondered as to what they really were until, when I was about 14, and my parents took me on a trip to Jabalpur during the summer vacation that year. We were in fact visiting some members of our extended family in Bhillai (now in Chhattisgarh), when the issue of Marble Rocks came up. Since it was not far away, we decided to make a dash for it.

During those days (80’s to be precise), the entire Vindhya plateau was a notorious hideout of ferocious bandits, our fears were not unfounded.

The overnight train journey was slow and tedious. Firstly, there were very few passengers on board since it was a not-frequently-traversed route. So we were served a frugal dinner since (so they said) the pantry car had insufficient provisions. Next, we were startled to discover that we were miles away from civilisation, as the train chugged its way through vast open fields, forest tracts, rocky ravines and hillsides. During those days (80’s to be precise), the entire Vindhya plateau was a notorious hideout of ferocious bandits, our fears were not unfounded.

Nonetheless the night passed uneventfully. The following morning we reached Jabalpur, which used to be a sleepy little cantonment town those days. After a few hours we headed towards Bhedaghat  –  site of the marble rocks – located a few miles out of town. Lo and behold, what a great natural marvel it was! The entire area is actually a gorge carved out by the meandering Narmada River. The craggy, immaculately white marble cliffs glistening in summer sunlight filled our hearts with awe. What a brilliant craftsman nature was!

As the boatman dexterously manoeuvered the boat in between the cliffs, and it veered close to the walls on either side I couldn’t resist the temptation of reaching out and touching the icy cold walls.

This was followed by the mandatory boat ride on the river.  As the boatman

dexterously manoeuvered the boat in between the cliffs, and it veered close to the walls on either side I couldn’t resist the temptation of reaching out and touching the icy cold walls. The greenish black waters of the river seemed to beckon to the travelers to plumb the unfathomable depths and discover the mysteries that lie within.

While at Bhedaghat don’t miss out on visiting the Dhuandhar Falls located in the vicinity. The name is derived from Dhuan (smoke) and Dhar (flow). In other words, it denotes a smoky cascade of waters. In geographical terms, the Narmada after flowing past the marble rocks narrows down and hurtles downwards, transforming itself into a waterfall in the process. The cold misty spray flying all over your hair and face and the deafening roar of the waters, will hold you spellbound. For a better and closer view of the “Falls” the tourists can now avail of the cable car services operating out of Bhedaghat. (During our visit it was nonexistent). The brief journey provides grand views from both banks of the river.

The cold misty spray flying all over your hair and face and the deafening roar of the waters, will hold you spellbound.

As is commonplace at all tourist sites, the curious travelers will find numerous makeshift stalls vending a medley of knick-knacks, souvenirs, mementoes – marble being the predominant raw material, naturally – and such like.  Haggling is a good option unless of course you wish  to splurge. While there I had procured a marble bust of the Buddha. To this day it smugly sits in a corner of my living room!

Photos from the Internet