Ruchira traces the origin and antiquity of Sohan Halwa. An exclusive for Different Truths.

My hometown, the nation’s capital Delhi is reputed for its numerous pakwan (Hindi for cooked dishes) while not forgetting the galaxy of spicy scrumptious  namkeen (snacks savouries tidbits).Nonetheless If there is one non-salty  item which I would want first-timers or visitors to the city to taste, it would be Sohan Halwa. This sweetmeat is a major crowdpuller even outside the town.  Even among locals it is a much-sought-after delicacy and integral part of the city’s gastronomy. Sohan Halwa’s antecedents may be traced back to Middle East or West Asia if you please. Coming out of an arid desert like geographical region, the ingredients comprise minimal milk blended with water, sugar, and wheat flour. This explains why unlike the indigenous halwa–be it semolina, lentils   fruit or vegetable – Sohan Halwa is closer to its western cousins notably Greek/Turkish Baklava.

Sohan Halwa’s antecedents may be traced back to Middle East or West Asia if you please. Coming out of an arid desert like geographical region, the ingredients comprise minimal milk blended with water, sugar, and wheat flour.

The mixture in question is doused in pure desi ghee and heated in a wok until it turns into a caramelised hardened mass. Now it’s time for garnishing. Strands of saffron, almonds, pistachios and cardamom seeds chip in to do the job perfectly. The final result is a feast to the eyes even before it reaches the tongue! You would find Sohan Halwa in the shape of light yellowish-brown discs, though they also come in bite size pieces and squares. And the taste…words fail me; the delicious aroma of ghee (use high quality ghee for best results) aptly mingling with the scent of spices along with the caramelised sugar to provide a melt-in-the-mouth experience!

A word of caution however. The Halwa’s dry hard exterior (which ensures longer shelf life) might be tad difficult for persons with not-so-good teeth to break or bite into. I remember how my thamma (daadi) having concluded her Delhi visit carried away with her (to Kolkata) a substantial quantity of the item, since she had fallen in love with it during her sojourn here. Unfortunately on a couple of occasions, finding them rather tough, she resorted to the ubiquitous  shill noda /seel batta, smashing each disc to smithereens and consuming the broken bits   and pieces. For her the taste of the sweet was irresistible!

Apparently Sohan Halwa gained foothold in India during the reign of Humayun the second Mughal emperor. From diverse anecdotes we garner that the first ever Sohan Halwa vend Ghantewala Halwai  was established in Delhi’s Chandni Chowk way back, in 1790,

Apparently Sohan Halwa gained foothold in India during the reign of Humayun the second Mughal emperor. From diverse anecdotes we garner that the first ever Sohan Halwa vend Ghantewala Halwai  was established in Delhi’s Chandni Chowk way back, in 1790,  while (later) Mughal Emperor Shah Alam II  was still in office! Amidst its vast array of sweets, Sohan Halwa remained the flagship. Meanwhile, with passage of years (in both pre & post independent era) many other sweet marts (selling this lucrative dessert) came up and began to flourish in around the walled city. The likes of Chaina Ram Sindhi Halwai thrive till date. But sadly, weighed down by unavoidable circumstances, the iconic Ghantewala downed its shutters for the last time nearly five years ago!

Photos from the Internet